Plastic Antweight (1 lb, plastic only)
The cheapest, safest entry point. 3D-printed frames, hobby motors, no metal weapons. A great first build for kids and adults alike.
Two decisions: what weight class you'll build for, and how you'll build it. Both are reversible — but picking well saves you months.
Antweight (1 lb) and Beetleweight (3 lb) are the most beginner-friendly. Start small — your first bot will lose, and small bots lose cheaply.
The cheapest, safest entry point. 3D-printed frames, hobby motors, no metal weapons. A great first build for kids and adults alike.
The most popular beginner class. Big enough for real spinners and wedges, small enough that parts are cheap and a single failure won't ruin your weekend.
More room for serious weapons and better drive trains. Costs and consequences scale up — usually a second build, not a first.
Bigger budgets, bigger arenas, more travel. Worth aspiring to, but don't start here.
Buy a proven kit, follow the instructions, show up at an event. The fastest path from zero to driving in the box. Pros: guaranteed-working geometry, spare parts easy to source, strong community support. Trade-offs: less learning per dollar, you'll want to modify it almost immediately.
Start with a kit, then swap a weapon, motors, or armor. The sweet spot for most second-time builders. Pros: keeps the kit's reliable base, real design decisions without full CAD, cheap iterative learning. Trade-offs: easy to break a working bot, requires basic tools and patience.
Design from scratch in CAD, fabricate, iterate. The highest ceiling — and the longest ramp. Pros: learn CAD + fabrication deeply, unique designs win events, full control over every gram. Trade-offs: expect multiple revisions, higher cost, longer to first match.
Watching a live event will tell you more about your build path than any spec sheet.